Degustation review | One Fell Swoop and Shu Liu | Melbourne Fringe Festival | Ballarat Mining Exchange

Taking my seat at Degustation, I couldn’t help but feel like I was about to experience The Menu - albeit with considerably more acrobatics and, thankfully, considerably less culinary carnage. Around 80 guests are seated along a long white table, with four beautifully presented creations waiting at each place setting. Above the table hangs a suspended board, dressed with a tablecloth and an assortment of plates, glasses and decorative tableware. It’s an intriguing arrangement that immediately signals this is going to be a meal unlike any other.

The six artists from One Fell Swoop - Angelique Ross, Roya the Destroya, Claire Bindoff, Easa Min-Swe, Charice Rust, and Jonathan Morgan, (with the latter two also serving as directors) - wear outfits designed by Emily Barrie that mix bright colours, fabrics and styles to create an eye-catching, playful aesthetic. But it’s also the way the circus unfolds around the diners that makes Degustation especially interesting.

Sitting right by where the action takes place provides a perspective on circus that you rarely get from a traditional theatre seat. When Ross gets on a trapeze directly above you, you can appreciate the physicality required from an entirely different angle, seeing the body, its strength and its movement in a way that would be impossible any other way. Similarly, her bottle-top walking act reveals how precarious this is, with every step requiring incredible balance, concentration and precision.

Bindoff's hula-hoop routine makes excellent use of this runway-like space. Moving the length of the table, she uses and engages with the hoops with an energy and flair that builds excitement. The group sequences are equally impressive, with the ensemble combining their individual strengths in a series of flips, twists, lifts and balances. There's a wonderful trust between them, as well as a playfulness that makes the physical feats all the more enjoyable.

The music by Duane Morrison is a driving force throughout the production, constantly shifting its rhythms and beats to complement the action. At times, the electronic, synth-heavy soundtrack seems to pulse through your own body, drawing you further in. At other moments, the music takes on a nostalgic, almost longing quality, giving the acts an emotional texture. The lighting by John Collopy works just as effectively, bathing the performers in various hues and strobe effects that heighten the dramatic effect.

And then, there's the food. While the acrobatics plays out, we're treated to a five-course, plant-based menu created by chef Shu Liu from SHU restaurant. There's a real anticipation as each plate arrives, with the presentation making an impression before you've taken your first bite. Fortunately, the flavours are every bit as memorable. My favourite was probably the roasted eggplant in home pickled chili and ginger relish, sitting on top of crispy fried Chinese donut. Even writing that description made my mouth water.

The food is about more than simply providing dinner alongside the circus. It has an important role in bringing the audience together and establishing a sense of shared experience. This is particularly evident at the beginning, when we all "break bread". We're encouraged to eat with our hands, introducing a light-hearted, informal element that is perfectly suited to the evening. It invites us to let go of convention and embrace the fun, much like the cast do on stage.

There are instances when the kitchen becomes part of the show itself. Live camera footage takes us behind the scenes, offering a glimpse of the work involved, and it's nice to have the preparation and enjoyment of food incorporated into the show in small ways. When chef Liu appears towards the end of the evening, the footage is projected along the table, an inventive way of incorporating the culinary side of the production into the performance. However, the flat, horizontal projection surface makes some of the visuals difficult to see clearly. I would have loved a little longer exploring what's happening in the kitchen, to give us a greater appreciation of what goes into each course and strengthen the link between the two spaces.

Degustation brings together circus and dining in a way that feels natural and engaging. The One Fell Swoop acrobats deliver the spectacle, the menu offers its own surprises and delights, and the communal table creates an intimacy that makes this event quite different from a conventional night at the theatre or restaurant. It's a celebration of the pleasures of watching, tasting and sharing a unique moment with others.

SHOW DETAILS

Venue: Ballarat Mining Exchange, 12-16 Lydiard Street, Ballarat
Season: until 25 October | 1pm and 5pm
Duration: 90 minutes
Tickets: $110 Full | $95 Conc
Bookings: Melbourne Fringe Festival

Image credit: Aaron Walker